We all have questions about fence, but only a few people have answers.
A structure serving as an enclosure, a barrier, or a boundary, usually made of posts or stakes joined together by boards, wire, or rails.
How do I clean this fence?
Answer: Flex-Fence should be cleaned with soap and water. Use a brush if necessary. If your fence is in a highly-humid area and has mold, use a pressure washer.
Question: Will oiling my posts break down the materials in my Flex-Fence?
Answer: No. Flex-Fence is made with polyethylene, which is the product of choice for chemical containers because it is impervious to chemicals.
Question: What does my warranty cover?
Answer: All manufacturer’s defects. This includes cracking, peeling, chipping and discoloration. Abuse to the fence is not covered. We recommend the use of electric fence in high traffic areas.
Any high tensile product will be extremely strong. However, if you crimp or fold the fence over onto itself, then pull tension on it, you create a weak spot. We recommend using a spinning jenny to unroll Flex-Fence. Do not pull the coated wire from the middle of the roll. Pull fence from the outer end of the roll. If you need to take your fence down to move it, be sure you to not kink the wire.
Question: Will my horse chew on the rail?
Answer: Most horses do not like to chew on polymer fencing. It is not palatable material. If horses abuse the rail, we recommend adding electric or a crib strap.
Question: How many spoolers will I need?
Answer: Our rolls of Next Generation Flex Fence are 660’ or 330’ in length. Because of the specially bonded rail, you only need one spooler every 660’ on most stretches of fence. Less hardware is needed and installation is easier. If your fence is less than 660’, you will still need one spooler. If you fax or e-mail a diagram, our staff can help illustrate where spoolers should be placed.
Question: How does this fence work?
Answer: Flex-Fence offers the key elements of strength and flexibility. Strength: this fence is one of the strongest available! When faced with an impact, it won’t splinter like wood or PVC. Flexibility: this fence flexes on impact, and then returns to its original shape. Instead of staying rigid and possibly injuring your horse, this fence will give, while still keeping your horses contained. The impact is dispersed evenly down the fence line, and the fence gives 6-8”, and then returns back to place. Flex-Fence combines the best of both worlds: stronger containment to help keep horse in their pastures, and the added safety of flexing on impact. The beautiful look is an added bonus.
Question: What kind of posts do I need?
Answer: Posts are the backbone of any fence system! They hold rails in place and provide stability for the entire structure. They are as important as your rails. If you are using wood posts, choose a good pressure treated post. Find out the retention level of the post. For example, a .40 retention level means the post will last 40 years under normal conditions. Don’t be fooled into purchasing posts that are less expensive. If the post is not treated, it may last less than a year. If the post is short, the chances of your horses getting out, or an animals getting in, are greater. If the post is small in diameter or a half cut” post, you will loose the strength that is needed to withstand pressure from your horses. Replacing posts is not as much fun as riding or working with your equine friend.
Different types of fencing systems can utilize different sized posts. Check out our product pages for post suggestions or speak with a representative for more information.
Question: Should I put the rail on the inside or outside of the post?
Answer: Placing the rail on the inside of the post is recommended and will always be stronger, as the rail is between the animal and the post. Aesthetically, rails on the outside of the post may look better. In high-traffic areas, or for horses who like to lean and push on fencing, putting rails on the inside of the post will give you added strength and peace of mind.
Question: How many rails should I use?
Answer: When using a wider rail (such as 5.25” or 4.25” Flex-Fence), typical configurations are either three or four rails. In these cases, a 4-rail fence provides the better visible barrier, closer rail spacing and peace of mind. A 4-rail fence is also more aesthetically pleasing.
For smaller rails like Coated Wire, four to eight rails are typical. You may decide that a combination fence system works best for you. This consists of fencing with a wider rail on top (sight rail) and three to five smaller rails underneath it. There are many possibilities for combination fencing, and we have many ideas for your foals, yearlings, minis or stallions. We can suggest combinations of rails for nursery paddocks or any pasture to fit your budget, without sacrificing safety.
The taller your posts are, the bigger spacing becomes between rails. If your horses have plenty of grass to graze on in your pasture, wider spacing between rails may not be a problem. However, if your area is a dry lot, wider spacing may mean an invitation for your horses to stick their heads through rails and reach grass on the other side. Also, if you have foals or minis in pasture, they can escape if the rail spacing is too wide. A good rule of thumb is to keep rail spacing no more than 9-11 inches.
Consider the horses you have now, as well as your future plans. Will you eventually have minis, foals or stallions? It’s much easier to install the extra rail when building the fence, rather than adding it later. One vet bill is usually more expensive than an extra rail of fence. If your budget doesn’t allow you to fence with more rails, consider adding a deterrent rail between your larger rails. Coated Wire, Hotcote and Pro-Tek Tape are affordable and very effective.